I get this question a lot. You heard about Japanese knives, want to try one, but don’t know where to start. Here are the three i would point you to — all made in Sanjo, Niigata. All personally tested by me. No complicated maintenance for two of them, nothing crazy expensive.
The Knives
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Tadafusa — easiest starting point SLD semi-stainless. Won’t rust unless you really ignore it. Tadafusa has been making knives in Sanjo, Niigata for generations. The Kobo and Ookami lines come crazy sharp out of the box and stay sharp for a long time. The steel is laminated SLD — harder than typical stainless but doesn’t rust like carbon. Dry it after use, but if you forget once nothing bad happens. The Kobo Santoku comes in a beautiful cardboard box — makes a very good gift. Steel: Laminated SLD (semi-stainless, Hitachi) · Handle: Kobo: chestnut / Ookami: Western and Wa · Made in: Sanjo, Niigata · From: 700 DKK ex. VAT Best for: Complete beginners. Gift buyers. Anyone coming from German or Western knives. |
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SLD semi-stainless. Won’t rust in a normal kitchen. Kaeru means frog. It’s our house knife series, made in Sanjo, Niigata. True workhoarse in the kitchen, i started this line because i wanted a knife that cuts like a proper Japanese knife but doesn’t need the same care as carbon steel. Good for someone who cooks regularly and wants something that lasts many years with basic sharpening. For Pro chefs and begginers Steel: SLD core (Hitachi), soft stainless cladding · Handle: Ho wood D shape, buffalo horn · Made in: Sanjo, Niigata · From: 650 DKK ex. VAT Best for: Home cooks or Pro who cook most days and want a proper thin-ground Japanese knife. But still have heft |
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Tanuki — real carbon steel, very cheap White 2 carbon steel. Will rust if you don’t dry it. But it cuts like nothing else. Our most affordable series. Made in Sanjo by a maker i respect a lot. Extra thin grind, amazing Sanjo tapering. These knives are cheap because some have slight cosmetic issues — nothing that affects how they cut. White 2 (Shirogami 2) with iron cladding means it will rust if left wet. Dry it after washing — that’s the one rule. In return you get a knife that sharpens faster and gets sharper than stainless. Steel: White 2 (Shirogami 2, Hitachi), iron cladding · Handle: Ho wood D shape · Made in: Sanjo, Niigata · From: 750 DKK ex. VAT Best for: Cooks who want carbon steel. Good as a second knife after a stainless Japanese knife. |
Understanding the Steels
Harder steel gets sharper and holds an edge longer, but needs more care. German stainless is softest and most forgiving. White 2 is hardest and sharpest but will rust. SLD sits in the middle.
| White 2 (Tanuki) | SLD (Tadafusa & Kaeru) | German stainless | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rust risk | High — dry after use | Low | Very low |
| Hardness | 62–65 HRC | 60–64 HRC | 56–58 HRC |
| Edge sharpness | Highest | Very high | Good |
| Sharpening | Very easy | Easy | Moderate |
| Chromium % | 0% | 11–13% | 14–15% |
HRC in practice: Higher HRC = sharper edge that lasts longer but more brittle. Japanese knives are not dishwasher safe.
Why White 2 gets sharpest: Extremely pure carbon steel — almost no alloying elements. That purity allows a finer grain and sharper edge. No chromium means no rust protection.
Quick Comparison
| Tadafusa | Kaeru | Tanuki | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Steel | SLD semi-stainless | SLD semi-stainless | White 2 carbon |
| Rust risk | Very low | Very low | Dry after use |
| Hardness | ~60–62 HRC | ~60–62 HRC | ~62–65 HRC |
| Grind | Thin | Extra thin | Extra thin |
| First knife? | Yes | Yes | Better as 2nd |
| Good gift? | Yes — nice box | Yes | Only if they cook a lot |
| Price from | 700 DKK ex. VAT | 650 DKK ex. VAT | 750 DKK ex. VAT |
Not sure which one?
- Complete beginner or gift → Tadafusa
- Home cook, wants thin grind → Kaeru
- Want real carbon steel → Tanuki
- Still not sure → Send me a message